TRAVELOGUE
Rishikesh, Abode of the Hindu
Pantheon of Gods
This city with its temples, jhoolas, and sporting adverturism not only elevates you to a higher level of consciousness, but gives you the thrills of life never encountered before.
By Uma Venkatramani
Rishikesh, nestling in the foothills of the Himalayas, is one of the most fascinating places of pilgrimage for the Hindus at large but also many foreign tourists seeking spiritual solace in the abode of the Hindu pantheon of gods , particularly lord shiva and his wife Parvati and Lord Vishnu and Mahalakshmi.
Rishikesh is virtually the Gateway to the Garhwal hills, a popular town of Hindu pilgrimage in the Dehradun district of Uttarakhand in Northern India. HRISIKESA in Sanskrit, denotes Lord Vishnu, meaning lord of the senses, coming from the two words hrsika(senses) and isa(lord). In Skanda Purana, this area is known as Kubjamraka, as Lord Vishnu appeared under a mango tree.
The little town bustles with tourists, yoga enthusiasts, devotees of Ganga Maiyya(Mother Ganga), adventurists wanting the thrill of rafting the rapids, trekking, bungee jumping, camping along the river Ganges and in the forests, in the colorful and to the most part, well equipped tents. It is also the boarding point for several trekkers, who have to go to Joshi math, 10 hours away by road, (242 kms), from where brilliant treks such as the Kuari Pass and Valley of Flowers begin.
Over a span of 6 adventurous and fulfilling days, I did something that is quite possibly risky – a 60-year-old single woman such as me, traversed the length and breadth of this quaint town, and decided to pen my experiences as a guidance note for anyone who wants to make it there.Striking friendship with youngsters, I was able to complete my spiritual journey being a devout Hindu in the foothills of the Himalaya, a vast mountain system in southern Asia that extends for 1,500 miles (2,400 km) from Kashmir east to Assam.
The Himalayas consist of a series of parallel ranges that rise up from the Ganges River basin to the Tibetan plateau. The backbone is the Great Himalayan Range, the highest mountain range in the world, with several peaks rising to over 25,000 feet (7,700 m), the highest being Mount Everest.
I charted out the itinerary, which is one I advise, to others to traverse the foothills of the Himalayas.
Day 1: Ram Jhoola, Janki Setu, and Triveni Ghat evening aarthi
Day 2: Neelkanth Mahadev Temple and once again evening Triveni Ghat aarthi
Day 3: Devaprayag followed by rafting
Day 4: TTD temples and Ram Jhoola, followed by the Paramarth Ghat aarthi
Day 5: TTD temple and Triveni Ghat aarthi
As a spiritual person, I have visited several temples, more than once, but Rishikesh finds a special place as it is many things to many people. From visiting religious shrines to adventure sports, such as bungy jumping, river rafting.
Ram Jhoola: The most well-known tourist spot in Rishikesh is the Ram Jhoola.A landmark. A450-foot-long iron suspension bridge fleets precariously over the Ganges, which can cause vertigo for some people with weak ears. Essentially, a pedestrian bridge, it also two-wheelers, with a panoramic view of the Ganges, and connects the famous Sivananda ashram with Swargashram (on the Tehri Garhwal) side. Geeta Bhavan, Yog Niketan, Beatles ashram( George Harrison was drawn to Hindu spiritualism and he visited Rishikesh and the place is named after the UK pop group), are other places to visit on the river bank. The most awesome spectacle in the evening Ganga aarti at Par Marth Ghat, conducted by a bunch of young Vedic scholars rotating the Aarthi on a brass lamp in a rhythmic fashion that can quite mesmerize you. The Par Marth Ghat is located on the side of Ram Jhula.
On the evening of the last day of 2021, a discourse by the Swamiji of Par Marth followed, with no less than the Ambassadors of Israel and Mexico, attending with their Familia of two daughters. (With her 2 daughters).
Lakshman Jhula, another suspension castiron bridge facilitating the passage of both pedestrians and two-wheelers, connects the village of Tapovan on the western bank of the river to the village of Jonk on its eastern bank. It’s a beautiful place worth visiting. A newer and wider bridge, Janaki Setu has now been built, to ease traffic during festivals, also completing the Ram, Lakshman, and Sita trio so that Ma Janaki will no longer feel left out.
There are quaint and colorful markets, where one can buy warm clothes, Rudraksha malas(garlands), idols of all gods, clothes for kids and adults and to top it all, chat shops, shikanji and lemon soda carts, samosa and sweet shops to cater to all budgets. The local people are very humble, helpful and courteous. In Hindu mythology , the Rudraksha , considered very sacred possession , is actually representative of the tears of the supreme lord Shiva .
Rama market is another iconic Bazar. A large bustling market that leads to the famous Triveni Ghat, where 16 young boys lead the Maha Aarti of Ganga Ma in a rhythmic ensemble to the tune of melodious bhajans and graceful dancing. Dance is an art form among the Hindus and the supreme deity Lord Shiva was described as a great dancer and the most fearful of his dances was the Shiv Tandava. The people’s devotion to see the Aarti at both the ghats is palpable and elevates our minds to a totally different higher level of consciousness, to some mesmerizing spiritual heights.
One simply cannot give a pass to the Ganga Maiyya Aaarati at the Triveni Ghat, because then you have not seen Rishikesh in its enthralling heights of spirituality or experienced the mystical magical aura of this holy city. Beautifully handcrafted shawls, sweaters for adults and kids are the items to take away from the sprawling Rama market at surprisingly very affordable rates.
Commuting within the town is extremely easy and inexpensive. There are Share autos by which one can commute from point A to point B, for only Rs. 10 or Rs.20. The endpoint is usually Ram Jhula or the Lakshman Jhula, the twin jhulas of Rishikesh that forms the holy city’s gravitas.
Rishikesh, which abounds with temples in and around it’s perimeter, hosts two other beautiful temples – the Chandramouleeswarar temple and the Venkateswara temple, built and maintained by TTD, Tirumala Tirupati Devasthanam. The foundation stone for these temples was laid by the then Vice President of India, by Sri Sarvepalli Radhakrishnan, on 12th August 1954. The Chandramouleeswara Swami temple has shrines for Nandikeswarar, Chandikeswarar, Navagrahams, Dhakshinamoorthy, and Parvathy Devi.
Sri Venkateswara Swami temple in Rishikesh is proud to ensconce the Padmavathy Thaayaar (Mother in Tamil), Mahavishnu with Sridevi and Bhoodevi, Garudazhvar (the Lord’s vehicle), and Anantha Padmanabha Swami. Both temples, have Nitya Karmas or the daily rituals conducted by priests in the traditional south Indian style. As this temple is easily reachable and is located in the heart of the city, a morning or evening darshan is a must.
NEELKANTH MAHADEV TEMPLE
The spiritual journey took me to the Neelkanth Mahadev temple, one dedicated to Lord Shiva. Just 32 km from Rishikesh, it nestles in the Pauri Garhwal district of Rishikesh. As the name indicates, Lord Shiva drank the HALAHAL or poison, spewed out during the Sagar Manthan (churning of Oceans), by the Devas and Asuras (Gods and Demons), as their fight for supremacy to obtain Amrit (Nectar) resulted in the accident of poison. Lord Shiva drank the poison and retained it in his throat, which turned blue, hence the name Neelkanth ( blue throat). The temple is not very large, comprising just the main square structure and the Shivaling, and devotees throng to this temple with the entire vibration being one of power and dedication. The temple Gopura is in a pyramid style, with motifs and sculptures carved on its towers. A natural spring inside the complex is where devotees bathe before entering the temple. The temple itself is in the midst of dense forests, and near the Nar-Narayan mountain range, which is absolutely stunning in beauty with a sparkling hidden spring greeting you on the way. The ware is amazingly crystal clear.
An hour’s drive from Rishikesh by any mode of transport costs about Rs.200 per head, during peak season. The way to the temple has quaint markets for shopping, hygenic snack shops offering bajjis, pakodas, dosas and the ubiquituous Maggi and of-course tea/coffee. While the drive is scenic, we can see the Ganges flowing in the opposite direction.
DEVAPRAYAG.
An awesome spectacle as the Ganges, the holy river of the Hindus, begins its 2500+ km journey, through hills and plains to meet the Bay of Bengal. It is literally from the tip of the triangular hill, where the serene green or grey(depending on the season) Alaknanda and the bubbly, fast-paced, frothy blue Bhagirathi confluence together to form the Sacred Ganges.
Stunning as it is, one can see both the rivers flowing in parallel retaining their distinctive hues while merging. From the Rishikesh-Badrinath national highway, it’s a steep climb down to the confluence. There is an iron footbridge, which has to be crossed to access the Sangam. Yet another quaint market and snack joint greets us. There is an ancientRaghunathji temple, just above the Sangam. Devaprayag is about 70 kms(two hours) uphill from Rishikesh and is easily accessible by government buses or private cabs. The total journey takes five to six hours, entirely dependent on how long one decides to stay put at Devaprayag. The To and Fro drive lets you breathe fresh air as the river meanders towards its destination.
WHITE WATER RAFTING.
The Ganges at Rishikesh is one of the best places for white water rafting in India. For racing the rapids, there are 16km, 12km, and 9km stretches to choose from, the 16km stretch from Shivpuri to Rishikesh is the toughest one, certainly not for the faint-hearted or for those with comorbidities. The 16km stretch negotiates a sharp right angle to wade or flips over, even as the life jacket ensures that even if one falls overboard, one can survive the rapids by simply floating. The rapids are so strong that one needs to paddle unhindered and uninterruptedly under the meticulous eyes of the instructor. It’s one and half hours of pure adrenaline rush and an encounter with dangerous excitement for a 60-year-old.
If you are planning a trip to the holy city of Rishikesh, be informed that there are good dormitories, lodges, inns, hostels, hotels and ashrams to stay in and around Rishikesh, right from Haridwar to Devaprayag, from the budget-friendly to the very high-end ashrams/hotels. Food is not at all a problem… it is in fact a haven for street-food lovers, as the streets are lined with small stalls selling aloo ki Tikki, aloo chaat, momos, veg biryani, dosas, Maggi points, samosas, kulcha/chana, veg patties, burgers. There are also mid-level in-seating restaurants and bakeries to high-end fine dining.
The Vasishtha Gufa or caves is a must-see (25kms from Rishikesh, on the Badrinath road) as this is where people come for deep meditation seeking complete solitude. Sage Vashishta, the son of Lord Brahma and one of the seven great sages (saptarishis) is supposed to have meditated here for a protracted period. Rishikesh with its temples, jhoolas, and sporting adverturism not only elevates you to a higher level of consciousness, but gives you the thrills of life never encountered before.